Well, this was such a nice day that I decided to write down info to complement
the pictures.
Tanya and I warmed up by bouldering some low-level 9s & 10s. We then set up Blowing Smoke at the Monkey(5.11). Gary, David, and Christina set up Prototype(5.10), Bolt Talk(5.11), and Unnatural Selection(5.11). After doing these, I headed down to the Crankenstein wall which was already crowded. Fortunately, Gang Bang(5.11) was open. I borrowed Greg's stick clip and set up a top rope for Tanya.
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Tanya definitely gets the pic of the day award. Check out her hands on the last picture of her on Gangbang. She appears to have the key hold, but neither hand is actually on the wall at this point. Unfortunately, this was her last of several attempts. This should indicate that she will get the climb next time. In the background, you might see Matt, David (belaying), Gaye & ?, and Paul.
After that, I joined Valeria & Hernan to play on War on Rugs(5.10d) and Teenage Parties (5.11b). Hernan's fingers were a bit too big for the key bottom hold on Teenage Parties - which slowed him down a little. My small hands did ok, but Valeria set the standard for climbing this route. Check out pics 14 & 15 which show the painful-looking infinity shaped finger holes that Valeria uses - ouch!. They might be bomber - but I'll never know.
Next, Harnan and Valeria got on Gangbang. Hernan apparently had no problem, even after going left after the roof and making the route a little harder than it had to be. Valeria at 5'3" or so, couldn't even reach the essential beginning hold. After making the unstable rock cairn a bit taller, she not only managed to reach the hold, but pulled the move on her first time ever on the route. Pretty amazing - wish I had been taking pictures and not just supporting the cairn.
I finished up my climbing day with quick runs on toprope of up Wife in the Fast Lane(5.10d), Crankenstein (5.11c), and Gangbang again. I then took a long swim in the Pedernales and caught a ride back with Hernan and Valeria. 9 climbs, a long swim, and climbing friends everywhere - I can't imagaine a better way to spend the day.
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