Liposuction

Liposuction

I burned out early, but it was still another beautiful day at Reimers. I only got pictures after it was over for me, but I did get to hang with some friends I hadn't seen in ages - Barry, Matt, Jass, & Scott.

Unfortunately, The previous evening left me with some unvented anger, I had a sprained ankle, and I just wasn't wasn't focused. I've devoted a whole seperate page to the sordid details, but don't read Background Rant unless you want to risk the negativity. On the positive side, it was great to run into Barry from Dallas - who I hadn't seen in ages. He's much more of a trad climber and doesn't have the Austin limestone wired like everyone around here, but he was game enough to hop on Mario's 5.12 on the Dead Cats wall after Darryl and I set it up (no pictures). Darryl suggested I get a short, easy 5.11 onsight of some route right of Zoe's wall that I'd never heard of. It's apparently called "Snuff the Rooster". I failed the onsight and only got three draws in. Darryl finished the top - but even he didn't have an easy time. I couldn't even repeat the first part after he set a top rope. That "5.11" seemed significantly more difficult than Mario's "5.12" - at least today. Darryl said he thought it might be one of Alex Caitlin's routes - which sounds highly probably knowing Alex's like of impossible sloper handholds. My tips were shredded and we left to do Spider Grind like we'd originally intended. I was definitely spent because I then couldn't even hold the mongo holds on Spider Grind - so I came down and just belayed and took pictures with my old friend Jass - who took about half of these. Best wishes on the wedding next week, dude.

Below: Darryl & Scott both make Liposuction look easy. So easy in fact, that everyone heckled Scott to increase the difficulty. We distacted him and possibly caused him to bump his head on the knob seen just above him in picture 11. With friends like us, who needs penalty slack?

Scott_10	Scott_11	Scott_12	Scott_13	Scott_14	Scott_15
Darryl_10	Darryl_11	Darryl_12	Darryl_13	Darryl_14	Darryl_15
Darryl_16	Darryl_17	Jass_10	Jass_11	Jass_12	Jass_13

Jass takes a stab at Lipo with a belay from Matt. Jass appears to examine Scott's blood in picture 19 below.

Jass_14	Jass_15	Jass_16	Jass_17	Jass_18	Jass_19
Jass_20	Jass_21	Jass_22	Jass_23	Jass_24	Jass_25

Later, Jass demonstates the fine clipping hold/technique he learned in France on picture 27 below.

Jass_26	Jass_27	Jass_28	Jass_29	Jass_30	Barry-Scott
Matt_10	Matt_11	Matt_12	Matt_13	Matt_14	Matt_15

Matt hops on Liposuction and discusses beta with Scott below as he rests in the alcove. Since Matt climbed before Jass, he was unaware of the key French clipping beta but made the clip anyway before a little hangtime at the top.

Matt_16	Matt_17	Matt_19-Scott_Beta	Matt_20	Matt_21	Matt_22
Matt_23	Matt_24	Matt_25	Matt_26	Matt_27	Matt_29

Later, Scott and Matt headed for Jade, while I went to swim. Down by the water I ran into John Gonzales and crew who were bolting a new traversing route on the first tall boulder slightly downstream of the ropeswing. The drill ran out of juice after the first anchor bolt so I don't know if he finished it or not.